Welcome to our Amigurumi Hamster free crochet pattern! If you’re a crochet enthusiast looking to add an adorable and huggable amigurumi hamster to your collection, you’re in the right place. Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter or just starting, this pattern is designed to be fun and accessible for all skill levels.
With our step-by-step instructions and detailed guidance, you’ll be able to craft a charming amigurumi hamster free pattern that’s perfect as a gift or a delightful addition to your own crochet creations. This pattern is not only a creative project but also a fantastic way to develop your crochet skills.
So, gather your crochet hooks and favorite yarn, and let’s embark on this cute amigurumi adventure. Follow along with our easy-to-understand pattern to bring your very own amigurumi hamster to life. Let’s get started!
Materials List:
- YarnArt Jeans and Alize Cotton Gold hobby yarn. Additionally, I use white, black, and pink thread for eye and nose decoration.
- Crochet hook size 2 – 2.25.
- Needle for sewing pieces, preferably with a blunt end, and a long needle for tightening.
- Safety eyes with a 10 mm diameter.
- Polyester fiberfill stuffing, you can use holofiber.
- Scissors.
- Contrasting thread for marking.
- 2 mm knitting needles: sock/double-pointed needles, 40 cm in length.
Note: Using the materials list provided, the toy will be approximately 24.5 cm in size. When choosing your crochet hook, consider your own tension. I crochet fairly tightly, so I use a 2.25 mm hook. If you crochet more loosely, you can use a 1.75 – 2 mm hook.
Abbreviations:
CA – Amigurumi Ring.
SC – Single Crochet.
INC – Increase.
DEC – Decrease.
CH – Chain Stitch.
SL ST – Slip Stitch.
FO – Fasten Off.
PATTERN
Head:
Row 1: 7 SC in CA.
Row 2: INC in each stitch (14).
Row 3: (1 SC, INC) repeat 7 times (21).
Row 4: 1 SC, INC, (2 SC, INC) repeat 6 times, 1 SC (28).
Row 5: (3 SC, INC) repeat 7 times (35).
Row 6: 2 SC, INC, (4 SC, INC) repeat 6 times, 2 SC (42).
Row 7: (5 SC, INC) repeat 7 times (49).
Row 8: 3 SC, INC, (6 SC, INC) repeat 6 times, 3 SC (56).
Row 9: 56 SC.
Row 10: 56 SC.
Row 11: (7 SC, INC) repeat 7 times (63).
Row 12: 4 SC, INC, (8 SC, INC) repeat 6 times, 4 SC (70).
Row 13: (9 SC, INC) repeat 7 times (77).
Row 14-17: 77 SC (4 rows).
Row 18: 10 SC, (INC, 1 SC) repeat 7 times, 7 INC, 15 SC, 7 INC, (1 SC, INC) repeat 7 times, 10 SC (105).
Row 19: 105 SC.
Row 20: 105 SC.
Row 21: 43 SC, DEC, 15 SC, DEC, 43 SC (103).
Row 22: 42 SC, DEC, 15 SC, DEC, 42 SC (101).
Row 23: 41 SC, DEC, 6 SC, DEC, 7 SC, DEC, 41 SC (98).
Row 24: (5 SC, DEC) repeat 14 times (84).
Row 25: (10 SC, DEC) repeat 7 times (77).
Row 26: (9 SC, DEC) repeat 7 times (70).
Row 27: (8 SC, DEC) repeat 7 times (63).
Row 28: (7 SC, DEC) repeat 7 times (56).
Row 29: (6 SC, DEC) repeat 7 times (49).
Row 30: (5 SC, DEC) repeat 7 times (42).
Row 31: (4 SC, DEC) repeat 7 times (35).
Row 32: (3 SC, DEC) repeat 7 times (28).
Leave a long tail for sewing.
Insert the safety eyes between rows 15-16, 9-10 stitches from the edge. Use 10mm diameter safety eyes. To position the eyes, in Row 18, make 7 SC in a row, then place the eyes, counting: – the last SC + 2 SC and insert the eye. Similarly, insert the second eye, ensuring that you place the eyes between rows 15-16.
Stuff the head lightly; overstuffing will prevent proper tightening.
Arms (Make 2):
Begin with color #03.
Row 1: 6 SC in CA.
Row 2: INC in each stitch (12).
Row 3: (1 SC, INC) repeat 6 times (18).
Row 4: 18 SC.
Row 5: 18 SC.
Row 6: 6 SC, 3 DEC, 6 SC (15); on the last stitch, change to the main color.
Row 7: (3 SC, DEC) repeat 3 times (12).
Row 8-20: 12 SC (13 rows).
Row 21: 6 DEC (6).
Stuff only color #03 firmly; lightly stuff the rest of the arm. If sewing, pull tight through the front loops of the stitches. If crocheting, fold in half and single crochet 3 SC.
Legs (Make 2):
Right Leg – Start with color #03.
Row 1: 7 SC in CA.
Row 2: INC in each stitch (14).
Row 3: (1 SC, INC) repeat 7 times (21).
Row 4: 21 SC.
Row 5: 21 SC.
Row 6: (1 SC, DEC) repeat 7 times (14); on the last stitch, change to the main color.
Row 7: 14 SC.
Row 8: 14 SC.
Row 9: (1 SC, INC) repeat 7 times (21).
Row 10: 1 SC, INC, (2 SC, INC) repeat 6 times, 1 SC (28).
Row 11: 28 SC.
Row 12: 28 SC.
Row 13: 14 SC, 4 INC, 10 SC (32).
Row 14: 32 SC.
Cut the yarn.
Left Leg – Change Row 13:
Row 13: 10 SC, 4 INC, 14 SC (32).
Row 14: 32 SC.
Next, crochet 2 CH and attach the right leg -> On the right leg, crochet 32 SC, 2 SC in CH, 32 SC on the left leg, 2 SC in CH (68). Then:
For the remaining instructions, please continue following the pattern for your amigurumi project.
Body:
1 Row: 68 SC.
2 Row: INC, 21 SC, (1 SC, INC)*10, 23 SC, INC, 2 SC (80).
3 Row: 29 SC, 19 INC, 32 SC (99).
4 Row: 24 SC, DEC, 44 SC, DEC, 27 SC (97).
5 Row: 24 SC, 2 DEC, 38 SC, 2 DEC, 27 SC (93).
6 Row: 25 SC, DEC, 36 SC, DEC, 28 SC (91).
7 Row: 25 SC, DEC, 34 SC, DEC, 28 SC (89).
8 Row: 25 SC, DEC, 32 SC, DEC, 28 SC (87).
9 Row: 25 SC, DEC, 30 SC, DEC, 28 SC (85).
At this point, the crochet may look a bit strange, but don’t be concerned. When you start filling the toy, all the shaping will fall into place.
10 Row: 25 SC, DEC, 28 SC, DEC, 28 SC (83).
11 Row: 25 SC, DEC, 26 SC, DEC, 28 SC (81).
12 Row: 25 SC, DEC, 24 SC, DEC, 28 SC (79).
13 Row: 25 SC, DEC, 22 SC, DEC, 28 SC (77).
14 Row: 77 SC.
It’s better to stuff the toy as you go, paying special attention to the cheeks and tummy.
15 Row: (9 SC, DEC)*7 (70).
16 Row: 70.
17 Row: 70.
18 Row: (8 SC, DEC)*7 (63).
19 Row: 63.
20 Row: 63.
21 Row: (7 SC, DEC)*7 (56).
22 Row: 56.
23 Row: 56.
24 Row: (6 SC, DEC)*7 (49).
25 Row: 49.
26 Row: 49.
27 Row: (5 SC, DEC)*7 (42).
28 Row: 42.
29 Row: 42.
30 Row: (4 SC, DEC)*7 (35).
31 Row: 35.
32 Row: 35; If you’re attaching the arms, work as follows: 11 SC, 3 SC together with the arm, 14 SC, 3 SC together with the arm, 4 SC (35).
33 Row: (3 SC, DEC)*7 (28).
Stuff the piece.
Ears (Make 4):
First, crochet two pieces with color #03, then switch to the main color.
1 Row: 6 in the Amigurumi Ring.
2 Row: 6 SC (12).
3 Row: (1 SC, INC)*6 (18).
4 Row: (2 SC, INC)*2, 2 HDC, INC in DC, 2 HDC, INC, (2 SC, INC)*2 (24). Slip stitch only with color #03.
On the main color pieces, do not cut the yarn; continue as follows:
Assembly of the Ear Pieces:
After the last increase in the main color, pull up a loop. Fold the two pieces with their wrong sides together. Insert your hook into the last stitch of the color #03 piece where you made the slip stitch, make a chain, and then single crochet until the end of the row, making the last single crochet into the first stitch where the chain started.
Fold the ear in half, single crochet 3 SC, and make the first single crochet around the bridge (the chain). Make a chain and cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. Pull the yarn through to secure.
Muzzle:
Crochet 2 pieces.
1 Row: 6 in the Amigurumi Ring.
2 Row: 6 SC (12).
On the first piece, close with a slip stitch, cut the yarn, and hide it.
On the second piece, do not cut the yarn; continue crocheting.
Assembly of the Muzzle:
Join the second piece with a slip stitch in the last SC of the first piece. Then (1 SC, INC)*5, slip stitch. On the second piece, slip stitch, then (INC, 1 SC)*5, slip stitch and finish with an invisible closing stitch. This will be the top part.
Assembly:
Now, it’s time to assemble and decorate the face.
Start by tightening:
Tighten the muzzle 3-5 times until you achieve the desired result.
A second tightening option:
Tighten the muzzle using another method, 3-5 times until you achieve the desired result.
Sew the ears between rows 6 and 8.
Sew the muzzle behind the back loops of the stitches and the bridge.
Next, add the nose, eyes, and eyebrows. Divide white yarn into strands and embroider whiskers.
Sew the arms between rows 32 and 33.
Attach the head to the body in the center, behind the bridge.
Clothing:
Abbreviations:
LP – Front Loop;
BP – Back Loop;
CH – Chain (used for increases);
Edging – (used for edge stitches).
5 Rows: CH – chain.
Crochet a sweater:
Cast on 44 stitches. You can use your preferred method.
Always slip stitch in the beginning of the row, and for the edge, always crochet in the back loop.
1 Row: BP, 42 LP, BP (44).
2 Row: BP, 7 LP, CH, LP, CH, LP, 6 LP, CH, LP, CH, LP, 12 LP, CH, LP, CH, LP, 6 LP, CH, LP, CH, LP, 7 LP, BP (52).
Make the CH as shown in the photo below:
3 Row: BP, 50 BP, BP (52) – crochet the CH using the BP.
4 Row: BP, 8 LP, CH, LP, CH, LP, 8 LP, CH, LP, CH, LP, 14 LP, CH, LP, CH, LP, 8 LP, CH, LP, CH, LP, 8 LP, BP (60).
5 Row: BP, 58 BP, BP (60).
6 Row: BP, 9 LP, CH, LP, CH, LP, 10 LP, CH, LP, CH, LP, 16 LP, CH, LP, CH, LP, 10 LP, CH, LP, CH, LP, 9 LP, BP (68).
7 Row: BP, 66 BP, BP (68).
8 Row: BP, 10 LP, CH, LP, CH, LP, 12 LP, CH, LP, CH, LP, 18 LP, CH, LP, CH, LP, 12 LP, CH, LP, CH, LP, 10 LP, BP (76).
9 Row: BP, 74 BP, BP (76).
10 Row: BP, 11 LP, CH, LP, CH, LP, 14 LP, CH, LP, CH, LP, 20 LP, CH, LP, CH, LP, 14 LP, CH, LP, CH, LP, 11 LP, BP (84).
11 Row: BP, 82 LP, BP (84).
12 Row: BP, 13 LP (2 SC together)*12, 14 LP, BP.
Attention! If you want to make a sweater with short sleeves, do not remove the stitches onto an additional thread at this point. Instead, close them off using your preferred method.
13 Row: BP, 50 BP, BP.
14 Row: BP, 12 LP (2 LP, BP)*12, 14 LP, BP.
15 Row: BP, 62 BP, BP.
Now, crochet in the front loops only for the required length. In my case, it’s 12 rows.
Sleeves:
Take sock needles and cast on stitches. Remove the provisional thread. Attach a new thread to the first stitch.
Knit in stockinette stitch (knit one row, purl one row) using regular knitting needles, periodically checking the length. I made 17 rows.
Hood:
Cast on 44 stitches along the edge, using your preferred method.
You can also cast directly onto the needles using a 40 cm thread.
1 Row: BP, CH 1, LP, CH (2 LP, BP)*20, CH 1, LP, CH (65).
2 Row: BP, 63 LP, BP.
Then, continue knitting with turning rows in garter stitch (knit every row) while periodically checking the length. I knitted until the hood closed over the head.
After knitting the necessary rows, close off with a jersey seam and finish the sweater. Make a chain of slip stitches for the sweater tie. I made the chain along the row where I made the yarn overs (on the hood). You can also make two chains of slip stitches and attach them to the edges of the sweater.
Congratulations! Your hamster is ready!
