Cute Angel Amigurumi Doll Free Pattern – Crochet Your Heavenly Creation

Welcome to our enchanting world of crochet, where creativity knows no bounds. If you’re seeking a heartwarming and heavenly project, you’ve come to the right place. In this step-by-step guide, we’re thrilled to present our “Cute Angel Amigurumi Doll Free Pattern.” Get ready to dive into the world of amigurumi and bring a touch of angelic sweetness into your crafty endeavors.

Amigurumi is the art of crocheting or knitting small stuffed creatures, and our Cute Angel Amigurumi Doll is no exception. This free pattern is not only a joy to create but also makes for a heartfelt gift or a charming addition to your collection. Whether you’re an experienced crocheter or a beginner looking for a fun challenge, this project has something for everyone.

So, grab your yarn, hook, and enthusiasm, and let’s embark on this celestial journey of crafting cuteness. Follow our easy-to-understand instructions and let your crochet skills soar to new heights. This amigurumi angel doll is sure to become a cherished favorite, making it a perfect addition to your handmade creations.

Are you ready to turn a skein of yarn into a heavenly creation? Let’s get started on our Cute Angel Amigurumi Doll adventure, and you’ll have a precious, handmade angel to cherish or share with loved ones in no time.

Materials and Tools Used: 

YarnArt Jeans yarn in the following colors: No. 73 (skin color – body), No. 89 (purple – dress), No. 88 (yellow – hair), No. 84 (mustard – halo), No. 40 (brown – mouth and eyebrows). 

YarnArt Iris black yarn for eye detailing. 

Crochet hook No. 2. 

Stuffing material. 

Pins for marking tightening points and attaching details before sewing. 

Needle for sewing details and tightening. 

Needle with a sharp end for facial contour detailing. 

Scissors. 

Plastic base for the doll’s body for stability, which can be cut from any thin plastic material (discount card, food container, plastic jar lid, etc.). 

Abbreviations: 

Ch – Chain stitch. 

Sc – Single crochet. 

Inc – Increase. 

Dec – Invisible decrease (work through the front loops of the stitches). 

Sl st – Slip stitch. 

Hdc – Half double crochet. 

PATTERN

HEAD 

Work with skin-colored yarn No. 73 in a spiral. The row marker should be placed in the center of the head. Make sure to follow its placement and adjust the stitches if necessary. 

1st round: 6 sc in MAGIC RING = 6 stitches. 

2nd round: 6 inc = 12 stitches. 

3rd round: 12 inc = 24 stitches. 

4th round: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 times = 30 stitches. 

5th round: (2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc) x 6 times = 36 stitches. 

6th round: (5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 times = 42 stitches. 

7th round: (3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc) x 6 times = 48 stitches. 

8th-15th rounds (8 rounds): 48 sc = 48 stitches. 

In the 16th and 17th rounds, make increases for the cheeks. 

16th round: 18 sc, 4 inc, 4 sc, 4 inc, 18 sc = 56 stitches. 

17th round: 14 sc, 4 inc, 20 sc, 4 inc, 14 sc = 64 stitches. 

18th-24th rounds (7 rounds): 64 sc = 64 stitches. 

25th round: 7 sc, (1 dec, 6 sc) x 6 times, 1 dec, 7 sc = 57 stitches. 

26th round: 7 sc, (1 dec, 5 sc) x 6 times, 1 dec, 6 sc = 50 stitches. 

27th round: 6 sc, (1 dec, 4 sc) x 6 times, 1 dec, 6 sc = 43 stitches. 

28th round: 3 sc, (1 dec, 4 sc) x 6 times, 1 dec, 2 sc = 36 stitches. 

29th round: 7 sc, (1 dec, 2 sc) x 5 times, 1 dec, 7 sc = 30 stitches. 

30th round: 7 sc, (1 dec, 1 sc) x 5 times, 1 dec, 6 sc = 24 stitches. 

31st round: 12 dec = 12 stitches. 

32nd round: 6 dec = 6 stitches. 

Fasten off, secure the yarn, cut it, and hide the ends. 

NOSE 

Work with skin-colored yarn No. 73 in a spiral. 

1st round: 6 sc in MAGIC RING = 6 stitches. 

2nd round: 6 inc = 12 stitches. 

3rd round: 2 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc = 16 stitches. 

4th round: 16 sc = 16 stitches. 

5th round: 2 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc = 12 stitches. 

6th round: 6 dec = 6 stitches. 

Secure the yarn, cut it, but leave thread tails for sewing the nose to the head. Fill the nose. 

EARS (2 PARTS) 

Work with skin-colored yarn No. 73 in rows. 

1st row: 6 sc in MAGIC RING, do not join in a circle. Make 1 ch and turn the work = 6 stitches. 

2nd row: 6 inc = 12 stitches. 

Secure the yarn, cut it, but leave a thread tail for sewing the ears to the head. 

HAIR 

Work with yellow yarn No. 88 in a spiral. 

1st round: 6 sc in MAGIC RING = 6 stitches. 

2nd round: 6 inc = 12 stitches. 

3rd round: 12 inc = 24 stitches. 

4th round: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 times = 30 stitches. 

5th round: (2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc) x 6 times = 36 stitches. 

6th round: (5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 times = 42 stitches. 

7th round: (3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc) x 6 times = 48 stitches. 

8th round: (7 sc, 1 inc) x 6 times = 54 stitches. 

9th-11th rounds (3 rows): 54 sc = 54 stitches. 

12th round: 9 sc, (make 20 ch, starting from the second ch from the hook, work 19 sc, make sl st in the front loop of the 12th round) x 9 times, 9 sc, (make 10 ch, starting from the second ch from the hook, work 9 sc, make sl st in the front loop of the 12th round) x 9 times, 9 sc, (make 20 ch, starting from the second ch from the hook, work 19 sc, make sl st in the front loop of the 12th round) x 9 times. 

13th round: 9 sc, (make 30 ch, starting from the second ch from the hook, work 29 sc, make sl st in the back loop of the 12th round) x 9 times, 9 sc, (make 10 ch, starting from the second ch from the hook, work 9 sc, make sl st in the back loop of the 12th row) x 9 times, 9 sc, (make 30 ch, starting from the second ch from the hook, work 29 sc, make sl st in the back loop of the 12th round) x 9 times. 

Secure the yarn and cut it, but leave a thread tail for sewing the hair to the head. 

HEAD ASSEMBLY 

Tighten the cheeks and mouth: 

Mark points No. 1 and No. 2 between rows 24 and 25. The distance between the points is 14 stitches. 

Mark points No. 3, No. 4, No. 5, and No. 6 between rows 15 and 16. The distance between all points is 4 stitches. Note that there should be 4 increases from the 16th row between points No. 3-4 and No. 5-6. 

To tighten the right cheek: Insert the needle at point 1, bring it out at point 3, insert it at point 4, bring it out near point 1, skipping every other stitch. Pull the thread, repeat the tightening. Tie and hide the thread tails inside the detail. 

To tighten the left cheek: Insert the needle at point 2, bring it out at point 5, insert it at point 6, bring it out near point 2, skipping every other stitch. Pull the thread, repeat the tightening. Tie and hide the thread tails inside the detail. 

Tighten the eyes: 

Place point No. 1 at the point where the head’s stitches are tightened. 

Between rows 10 and 11 (symmetrical to markers No. 4 and No. 5 in the cheek tightening), place markers No. 2 and No. 3. The distance between the markers is 4 stitches. 

Move 5 stitches away from markers No. 2 and No. 3, and place markers No. 4 and No. 5 in the row below (between rows 11 and 12). 

To tighten the right eye: Insert the needle at point 1, bring it out at point 2, insert it at point 4, bring it out near point 1, skipping every other stitch. Pull the thread, repeat the tightening. Tie and hide the thread tails inside the detail. 

To tighten the left eye: Insert the needle at point 1, bring it out at point 3, insert it at point 5, bring it out near point 1, skipping every other stitch. Pull the thread, repeat the tightening. Tie and hide the thread tails inside the detail. 

Attach the nose between the cheeks. 

Embroider the eyes with YarnArt Iris black yarn, adding eyelashes. 

Divide the brown yarn No. 40 into thin strands. Use one of the thin strands to embroider the eyebrows and mouth. 

Attach the hair to the head. Tie the side strands into pigtails using a long strand, securing the end with a needle and thread. 

Attach the ears near the hairline. 

Optionally, blush the cheeks and eyelids. 

TULUB DRESS 

Work with purple yarn No. 89 in a spiral. 

1st round: 6 sc in a magic ring = 6 stitches. 

2nd round: 6 inc = 12 stitches. 

3rd round: 12 inc = 24 stitches. 

4th round: 24 sc = 24 stitches. 

5th round: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 12 times = 36 stitches. 

6th round: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 12 times = 48 stitches. 

7th round: 48 sc = 48 stitches. 

8th round: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 12 times = 60 stitches. 

9th round: 60 sc = 60 stitches. 

Cut a plastic base according to the size of this piece. You will later place it at the bottom of the doll’s body for added stability. 

10th round: Work through the back loops of the 60 stitches = 60 stitches. 

11th-12th rounds (2 rounds): 60 sc = 60 stitches. 

13th round: Work through the back loops of the 60 stitches = 60 stitches. 

14th round: 2 sc, 1 dec, 52 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc = 58 stitches. 

15th round: 58 sc = 58 stitches. 

16th round: 2 sc, 1 dec, 50 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc = 56 stitches. 

17th round: 56 sc = 56 stitches. 

18th round: 2 sc, 1 dec, 48 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc = 54 stitches. 

19th round: 54 sc = 54 stitches. 

20th round: 2 sc, 1 dec, 46 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc = 52 stitches. 

21st round: 52 sc = 52 stitches. 

22nd round: 2 sc, 1 dec, 44 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc = 50 stitches. 

23rd round: 50 sc = 50 stitches. 

24th round: 2 sc, 1 dec, 42 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc = 48 stitches. 

25th round: 48 sc = 48 stitches. 

26th round: 2 sc, 1 dec, 40 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc = 46 stitches. 

27th round: 46 sc = 46 stitches. 

At this point, place the plastic base at the bottom of the doll’s body and gradually start filling the piece. Continue filling the body as you progress. 

28th round: 2 sc, 1 dec, 38 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc = 44 stitches. 

29th round: 44 sc = 44 stitches. 

30th round: 2 sc, 1 dec, 36 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc = 42 stitches. 

31st round: 42 sc = 42 stitches. 

32nd round: 2 sc, 1 dec, 34 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc = 40 stitches. 

33rd round: 40 sc = 40 stitches. 

34th round: 2 sc, 1 dec, 32 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc = 38 stitches. 

35th round: 38 sc = 38 stitches. 

36th round: 2 sc, 1 dec, 30 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc = 36 stitches. 

37th round: 36 sc = 36 stitches. 

38th round: 2 sc, 1 dec, 28 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc = 34 stitches. 

39th round: 34 sc = 34 stitches. 

40th round: 2 sc, 1 dec, 26 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc = 32 stitches. 

41st round: 32 sc = 32 stitches. 

42nd round: 2 sc, 1 dec, 24 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc = 30 stitches. 

43rd round: 30 sc = 30 stitches. 

44th round: 24 sc, 3 dec = 27 stitches. 

45th round: 3 dec, 21 sc = 24 stitches. 

46th-47th rounds (2 rounds): 9 sc, 6 hdc, 9 sc = 24 stitches. 

Secure the yarn, cut it, but leave a thread tail for sewing the body to the head. 

TULUB ASSEMBLY 

Attach the legs between the 10th and 11th rounds under the dress. 

Sew the arms between the 27th and 33rd rounds, directing them upwards. Connect the palms together using a needle and thread. 

Sew the wings to the back. 

Attach the head to the body. 

Sew the nimbus (halo) to the head. 

BEEHIVE 

FLOWER (7 parts): 

1st round: 6 sc in a magic ring = 6 stitches. 

2nd round: Work through the back loops of the 6 stitches, make 6 inc = 12 stitches. 

3rd round: Work through the front loops of the stitches: ([1 sl st, 2 hdc, 2 sl st] – into the first stitch, [2 sl st, 2 hdc, 1 sl st] – into the second stitch) x 6 times. 

4th round: Work through the front loops of the stitches of the 1st round: ([1 sl st, 2 hdc, 2 sl st] – into the first stitch, [2 sl st, 2 hdc, 1 sl st] – into the second stitch) x 3 times. 

Secure the yarn, cut it, and hide the ends. 

BASE UNDER THE WREATH: 

1st round: 6 sc in a magic ring = 6 stitches. 

2nd-40th rounds (39 rounds): 6 sc = 6 stitches. 

Secure the yarn, cut it, but leave a thread tail for sewing the piece. Join both ends using a needle. 

WREATH ASSEMBLY 

Cut the yarn of the flower color, and sew all the flowers one by one to the base. For each flower, embroider the center using a French knot with contrasting yarn. Thread a needle with thread through the center of the base to attach the wreath to the head.