Free Ladybug Dress Doll Amigurumi Pattern – Crochet Your Own Cute Creation!

Welcome to our delightful world of crochet! If you’re in search of a charming amigurumi project, look no further. We’re thrilled to present our free Ladybug Dress Doll Amigurumi pattern. Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter or just starting out, this adorable creation is perfect for you. Get ready to embark on a journey of creativity as we guide you through the steps to craft your very own ladybug-themed amigurumi doll.

List of necessary materials: 

YarnArt Jeans (brown) – color 70 – 1.5 skeins; 

YarnArt Jeans (flesh) – color 73 – 1 skein; 

YarnArt Jeans (white) – color 01 – a very small amount; 

YarnArt Jeans (yellow) – color 58 – 1.5 skeins; 

Filling material (I use holofiber); 

Black safety eyes with an 18mm diameter; 

Wire for the frame (optional); 

Beading wire with a 0.5mm diameter (you can use a larger diameter) (for wings); 

Crochet hook (I use size 1.5); 

Needle for sewing parts; 

Scissors; 

Glue; 

Eyelashes (optional); 

White nail polish. I use it to create highlights in the eyes. 

Abbreviations: 

Sc – single crochet; 

Sl st – slip stitch; 

Ch – chain; 

Ch st – chain stitch; 

Inc – increase (i.e., work 2 sc in one stitch); 

Dec – decrease (i.e., work 1 sc over 2 stitches); 

repeat the instructions within the asterisks; 

Hdc – half double crochet; 

PATTERN

Head: 

Using YarnArt Jeans color 73 and a 1.5mm hook, we will crochet the head. The head will be worked using slip stitches and chain stitches, and all other parts of the toy will be crocheted in continuous rounds. 

Note: I crochet using “crosses.” 

Start by chaining 10 stitches and begin crocheting from the second chain from the hook: 

1 Row: 2 sc in the same stitch, 7 sc, 3 sc in the same stitch, 6 sc, 2 sc in the same stitch, sl st, ch st (20). 

2 Row: (Inc)*2, 7 sc, (Inc)*3, 7 sc, Inc, sl st, ch st (26). 

3 Row: (Sc, Inc)*2, 7 sc, (Sc, Inc)*3, 7 sc, sc, Inc, sl st, ch st (32). 

Continue in a similar pattern, increasing the number of stitches in each round until you reach Row 11. 

11 Row: (9 sc, Inc)*2, 7 sc, (9 sc, Inc)*3, 7 sc, 9 sc, Inc, sl st, ch st (80). 

12 Row: 5 sc, Inc, 10 sc, Inc, 5 sc, 7 sc, 5 sc, Inc, (10 sc, Inc)*2, 5 sc, 7 sc, 5 sc, Inc, 5 sc, sl st, ch st (86). 

13 – 22 (10 rows): 86 sc. At the end of each row, sl st and ch st. 

In the next row, we will create holes for the eyes: 

23 Row: 21 sc, 2 ch, skip 2 stitches from the previous row, 11 sc, 2 ch, skip 2 stitches from the previous row, 50 sc, sl st, ch st (86). 

Continue with Rows 24 to 30 (7 rows): 86 sc. At the end of each row, sl st and ch st. 

Now, insert the safety eyes. 

31 Row: 5 sc, Dec, 10 sc, Dec, 5 sc, 7 sc, 5 sc, Dec, (10 sc, Dec)*2, 5 sc, 7 sc, 5 sc, Dec, 5 sc, sl st, ch st (80). 

32 Row: (9 sc, Dec)*2, 7 sc, (9 sc, Dec)*3, 7 sc, 9 sc, Dec, sl st, ch st (74). 

33 Row: 4 sc, Dec, 8 sc, Dec, 4 sc, 7 sc, 4 sc, Dec, (8 sc, Dec)*2, 4 sc, 7 sc, 4 sc, Dec, 4 sc, sl st, ch st (68). 

34 Row: (7 sc, Dec)*2, 7 sc, (7 sc, Dec)*3, 7 sc, 7 sc, Dec, sl st, ch st (62). 

35 Row: 3 sc, Dec, 6 sc, Dec, 3 sc, 7 sc, 3 sc, Dec, (6 sc, Dec)*2, 3 sc, 7 sc, 3 sc, Dec, 3 sc, sl st, ch st (56). 

36 Row: (5 sc, Dec)*2, 7 sc, (5 sc, Dec)*3, 7 sc, 5 sc, Dec, sl st, ch st (50). 

37 Row: 2 sc, Dec, 4 sc, Dec, 2 sc, 7 sc, 2 sc, Dec, (4 sc, Dec)*2, 2 sc, 7 sc, 2 sc, Dec, 2 sc, sl st, ch st (44). 

38 Row: (3 sc, Dec)*2, 7 sc, (3 sc, Dec)*3, 7 sc, 3 sc, Dec, sl st, ch st (38). 

39 Row: sc, Dec, 2 sc, Dec, sc, 7 sc, sc, Dec, (2 sc, Dec)*2, sc, 7 sc, sc, Dec, sc, sl st, ch st (32). 

40 Row: (sc, Dec)*2, 7 sc, (sc, Dec)*3, 7 sc, sc, Dec, sl st, ch st (26). 

41 Row: (Dec)*2, 7 sc, (Dec)*3, 7 sc, Dec, sl st. (20). 

Finish the row with a slip stitch, cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. 

Stuff the head. You can start stuffing earlier, and use a pencil to shape the stuffing in difficult areas for a smooth, round shape. 

Next, create the shaping for the eyes. 

Thread a long needle with nylon thread. Insert the needle at the back of the neck, coming out on the outer side, between the eyes. Insert the needle into the center of the inner side of the same eye and come out on the outer side of the other eye. Again, insert the needle from the inner side of the same eye and come out at the back of the neck, a couple of stitches away from the initial insertion point. Tighten and tie a knot securely. 

Now, create the shaping for the mouth. 

Take the same needle and nylon thread. Insert the needle at the front of the neck and bring it out below the eye, leaving a gap of 6 rows (note: in the photo, I left a gap of 4 rows, but you should leave a gap of 6 rows). Insert the needle again, skipping 1 stitch, and bring it out below the other eye. Repeat by inserting the needle, skipping 1 stitch, and bringing it out at the back of the neck, a couple of stitches away from the initial insertion point. Tighten and tie a knot. 

Now, embroider the nose. 

Take a needle and the same yarn used for the head. Insert the needle as shown in the photo and make several stitches (I make 6 stitches). The nose occupies 2 rows. Pull both ends of the yarn out at the neck and hide them inside the head. 

Next, glue on the eyelashes and embroider the eyebrows and mouth. 

Now, draw highlights on the eyes using white nail polish. You can skip this step if you prefer. Your doll is already beautiful! 

The head is ready! 

Next, we will crochet the doll’s hair. 

For this, use brown yarn and crochet a chain of 10 stitches, starting from the second chain from the hook, just like you did for the head, from the first to the twelfth row, inclusive. 

Note: We will crochet the hair in continuous rounds without slip stitches and chain stitches. 

13 Row: (11 sc, Inc)*2, 7 sc, (11 sc, Inc)*3, 7 sc, 11 sc, Inc (92). 

14 – 27 (14 rows): 92 sc. 

Try the hairpiece on the head, and if it fits well, begin to single crochet slip stitch (hdc) around the edge. 

28 Row: 92 hdc. 

Fasten off, cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. 

Note: Your hat’s parameters (circumference and depth) may differ from mine. You may need to adjust the number of increase rows or decrease rows accordingly. The same applies to the depth. Please try it on your doll’s head as you go. 

Sew the hairpiece onto the head. 

Tails 

With the same brown yarn, create a chain of 63 chains. 

Starting from the third chain from the hook, crochet as follows: 

(2 hdc, 3 hdc in one chain) * 20 times (to the end of the row), make a slip stitch, and without cutting the yarn, continue: 

Create another chain of 63 chains and crochet in the same way: 

(2 hdc, 3 hdc in one chain) * 20 times, slip stitch, and create another chain. 

In this way, we create 5 spirals. 

Make one more identical tail. 

Sew the tails onto the body. 

Horns or Antennae (whichever you prefer) 

Crochet using brown yarn. Leave a long starting tail to sew the horns to the head later. 

Note: Do not stuff the horns; we will only stuff the yellow tips. 

1 Row: 6 sc in a magic ring (6). 

2 – 16 (15 rows): 6 sc (6). 

Switch to yellow yarn. 

17 Row: (Inc) * 6 (12). 

18 Row: (sc, Inc) * 6 (18). 

At this stage, I insert wire. Take a piece of wire approximately 25 cm long. Use pliers to bend one end of the wire in such a way that it won’t come out of the horn and will fit inside the yellow tip. 

19 – 21 (3 rows): 18 sc (18). 

22 Row: (sc, Dec) * 6 (12). 

23 Row: (Dec) * 6 (6). 

Stuff the tips and close the remaining stitches with a needle, hiding the yarn tail. 

Determine the placement on the head for the horns. I place them directly above the tails. Thread the free end of the wire through the head (I go through not only the hat but also the head itself). 

Crochet the second horn following the same pattern as the first one. 

Now, to secure the horns, sew them onto the head using the long tails you left. 

Arms 

We will crochet fingers, with 4 fingers on each hand. 

Start crocheting with flesh-colored yarn. 

1 Row: 7 sc in a magic ring (7). 

2 – 5 (4 rows): 7 sc (7). 

Make a slip stitch and cut the yarn. Each finger will be like this. 

Next, crochet 3 identical fingers: 

1 Row: 6 sc in a magic ring (6). 

2 – 6 (5 rows): 6 sc (6). Do not cut the yarn after the last finger. 

Now, continue to crochet the right hand: 

1 Row: 3 sc around the first finger, 3 sc around the second finger, 6 sc around the third finger, 3 sc around the second finger, 3 sc around the first finger (18). 

2 – 4 (3 rows): 18 sc (18). 

Now, crochet the thumb: 

5 Row: 6 sc, join the thumb to the hand with a slip stitch, then go back and crochet 5 sc around the thumb, join the thumb to the hand with another slip stitch, 10 sc (23). 

6 Row: 6 sc, Dec, 4 sc, Dec, 9 sc (21). 

Note: If you find it difficult to crochet fingers, you can try this alternative: Start with 6 sc in a magic ring, then increase to 18 sc in the same row, and continue to crochet the hand to the desired length. 

7 – 8 (2 rows): 21 sc (21). 

9 Row: (5 sc, Dec) * 3 (18). 

At this stage, you can stuff the fingers if you’d like. I only stuff them lightly. 

10 – 19 (10 rows): 18 sc (18). 

Switch to yellow yarn. 

20 Row: 18 sc (18). 

21 Row: Work around the back loop only of the stitches, 18 sc (18). 

Continue crocheting through both loops of the stitches. 

22 – 36 (15 rows): 18 sc (18). 

Make a slip stitch, cut the yarn. 

Crochet the left hand in the same way as the right hand up to the 4th row. Do not cut the yarn. 

Once both hands are ready, insert the wire frame and stuff them, helping shape them with a pencil if needed. 

Take a piece of wire (I use aluminum wire) approximately 60 cm long. Fold it in half and create loops at the ends. Insert it into the legs (the first leg will be the right one, and the second leg will be the left one) and start stuffing, using a pencil to help shape the legs as you go. 

Note: I do not know the exact diameter of the wire I use, but in terms of thickness, it’s approximately the same as a sushi stick. 

7 Row: Change to yellow yarn and crochet 50 sc through the back loops of the stitches (50). 

Continue crocheting through both loops of the stitches. 

8 – 12 (5 rows): 50 sc (50). 

At this stage, I insert the sole. 

I use this type of plastic for the soles: 

7 Row: Change to yellow yarn and crochet 50 sc through the back loops of the stitches (50). 

Continue crocheting through both loops of the stitches. 

8 – 12 (5 rows): 50 sc (50). 

13 Row: 16 sc, (sc, Dec) * 8, 10 sc (42). 

14 Row: 42 sc (42). 

15 Row: 12 sc, (sc, Dec) * 8, 6 sc (34). 

16 Row: 34 sc (34). 

17 Row: 13 sc, (sc, Dec) * 4, 9 sc (29). 

Switch to brown yarn and make an edging for the shoe by working around the front loops of the stitches in this row. Do not remove the marker. 

18/1: (sc, 3 ch) * to the end of the row. Do not skip the stitches from the previous row. Finish with a slip stitch, cut the yarn, and hide the end. 

This is what it looks like after the edging. 

We have the back loops of the stitches from the 18th row remaining. We will crochet around them. 

Join white yarn to the stitch with the marker and crochet: 

18/2 Row: 29 sc (29). 

19 – 30 (12 rows): 29 sc (29). 

31/1: Create an edging around the front loops of the stitches exactly like in the 18th row (do not remove the marker). 

31/2: Attach the flesh-colored yarn to the stitch with the marker and crochet 29 sc (29). 

32 – 41 (10 rows): 29 sc (29). 

42 Row: Dec, (5 sc, Dec) * 4, 4 sc (34). 

43 – 48 (6 rows): 34 sc (34). At the end of the last row, make a slip stitch. 

Cut the yarn. One leg is ready. Crochet the second one following the same pattern as the first one, but do not cut the yarn. 

As soon as both legs are ready, I insert a wire frame and stuff them while shaping them using a pencil. 

Take a piece of wire (I use aluminum wire) approximately 60 cm long. Fold it in half and create loops at the ends. Insert it into the legs (the first leg will be the right one, and the second leg will be the left one) and start stuffing, using a pencil to help shape the legs as you go. 

Note: I do not know the exact diameter of the wire I use, but in terms of thickness, it’s approximately the same as a sushi stick. 

Connecting our legs: 

Row 49: 2 sc in the second leg, 5 chains, sc with the first leg, 33 sc in the first leg, 5 sc in the chain, 32 sc in the second leg (78). 

Note: To connect the legs, I make the sc with the first leg in the 15th stitch after the slip stitch. In other words, at the end of the 48th row, we made a slip stitch, and now from that connection, we count forward 15 stitches and join the legs. However, everyone’s tension and crocheting style may vary, so make sure to try fitting the legs together first and only connect them when you’re sure about the placement. 

Rows 50 – 61 (12 rows): 78 sc (78). 

Now, shift the row by 44 sc, meaning crochet 44 sc, then crochet 1 more sc, and place a marker in that stitch. This is where the row will begin. 

Switch to yellow yarn. 

Row 62: 78 sc (78). 

Again, make 2 turning chains. Place a marker in the third chain. 

Row 63/1: Work 78 sc through the back loop of the stitches (78). 

Rows 64 – 77 (14 rows): 78 sc (78). 

Note: After the 63rd row, I crochet a couple more rows and then go back to crocheting the skirt. It’s more convenient for me, but you can choose to crochet the skirt at the very end. 

Now, let’s make the skirt: 

Attach the yellow yarn in the 63rd row where the front loops are left. 

Row 63/2 (I’ll refer to it as the 1st row): 

1 Row: (sc, 3 sc in one loop) * to the end of the row (156). 

Rows 2 – 21 (20 rows): 156 sc (156). 

Row 22: (10 sc, dec) * 13 (143). 

At the end of the row, make a slip stitch, cut the yarn, and edge it with brown yarn just like the shoes. 

Now, we go back to the body. We finished crocheting with the 77th row. 

Row 78: (11 sc, dec) * 6 (72). 

Row 79: 72 sc (72). 

Row 80: 5 sc, dec, (10 sc, dec) * 5, 5 sc (66). 

Row 81: 66 sc (66). 

Row 82: (9 sc, dec) * 6 (60). 

Row 83: 60 sc (60). 

Row 84: 4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) * 5, 4 sc (54). 

At this stage, I stuff the toy and attach the arms. I try and mark their positions with pins. 

Row 85: 12 sc, 6 sc through the arm and body together, 21 sc, 6 sc through the second arm and body together, 9 sc (54). 

Row 86: 12 sc, 12 sc through the arm, 21 sc, 12 sc through the second arm, 9 sc (66). 

At this stage, I insert a frame into the arms and stuff them lightly. I’ll repeat, you can crochet without a frame if you prefer. 

Row 87: (4 sc, dec) * 11 (55). 

Row 88: 55 sc (55). 

Row 89: (3 sc, dec) * 11 (44). 

Row 90: 5 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec (36). 

Switch to flesh-colored yarn and crochet the next row in the back loop of the stitches. 

Row 91: 36 sc through the back loops (36). 

Don’t forget to stuff your toy. 

Rows 92 – 96 (5 rows): 36 sc (36). 

Make a slip stitch, cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. 

Now, go back to the row where you have front loops left and edge it with brown yarn, just like you did with the shoes and skirt. 

The next step will be attaching the head. It might not be easy, but if you were able to crochet this doll, you can handle this difficulty as well. 

I try the head on and use pins to secure it. Then I sew it on. I sew it like this: I make a stitch around the head, pull the yarn through, then make a stitch around the neck, pull the yarn through, and so on until the end. 

Now, let’s make the spots. 

With brown yarn, start with a magic ring of 6 sc. This will be our first row. 

Row 2: (Inc) * 6 (12). 

Row 3: (sc, Inc) * 6 (18). 

Row 4: sc, Inc, (2 sc, Inc) * 5, sc (24). 

Cut the yarn. If you plan to sew the spots on, leave a long tail. I will glue them. 

Make a total of 14 spots like this. 

Wings: 

With yellow yarn, chain 3 and create one turning chain. 

Starting from the second chain from the hook, crochet: 

Row 1: Inc, sc, Inc, ch 1. Turn your work. 

Row 2: 5 sc, ch 1. Turn your work. 

Row 3: Inc, 3 sc, Inc, ch 1. Turn your work. 

Row 4: 7 sc, ch 1. Turn your work. 

Continue in the same manner: 

Rows 5 – 21: Increase and sc as needed to create the wing shape. At the end of each row, chain 1 and turn your work. 

Row 22: Skip the first chain, 28 sc, dec, ch 1. 

Row 23: 29 sc, ch 1. 

Row 24: Skip the first chain, 26 sc, dec, ch 1. 

Row 25: 27 sc, ch 1. 

Row 26: Skip the first chain, 24 sc, dec, ch 1. 

Row 27: 25 sc, ch 1. 

Row 28: Skip the first chain, 22 sc, dec, ch 1. 

Row 29: 23 sc, ch 1. 

Row 30: Skip the first chain, 20 sc, dec, ch 1. 

Row 31: Skip the first chain, 18 sc, dec, ch 1. 

Row 32: Skip the first chain, 16 sc, dec, ch 1. 

Row 33: Skip the first chain, 14 sc, dec, ch 1. 

Row 34: Skip the first chain, 12 sc, dec, ch 1. 

Row 35: Skip the first chain, 10 sc, dec, ch 1. 

Row 36: Skip the first chain, 8 sc, dec, sl-st. Cut the yarn. 

Next, edge the wing. I attach the brown yarn where we started with 3 chains. Create a loop with the brown yarn and thread the bead wire through it. Press the wire against the wing and crochet slip stitches (sl-st) around the entire wing, making sure not to crochet too tightly. The number of slip stitches will depend on your preference, but make sure the fabric doesn’t pucker (which could happen if the slip stitches are too sparse). However, don’t make them too close together either. 

We tied it, cut the thread and wire, and hid the tails. 

We knit the second wing in the same way as the first. 

Next I glue the spots: 4 pieces on each wing and 6 pieces on 

dress. I sew on the wings. 

Our doll is ready!