Lovely Bear Amigurumi Free Pattern

I am sharing awesome amigurumi bear patterns with you for free on this site. You will love this cute amigurumi bear pattern.

Bear knitted from Alize Angora Real 40 yarn (wool 40%, acrylic 60%) 

At 100g-480m 

Hook 1.25. 

The bear is knitted with one piece from the feet to the crown. 

Be sure to use the frame to keep the toy the shape, and most importantly the head, because the bear’s neck is very thin. 

Abbreviations: 

SC – single crochet 

İNC – increase 

DEC – decrease 

CH – chain 

PATTERN 

FEET BODY 

We start knitting with the legs. The marker passes strictly behind the leg. 

Left foot 

9 ch 

We start knitting in the second loop of the chain. 

1row-7sc, 3sc in one loop, on the other side of the chain 6sc, inc = 18sc  

2row-inc, 6sc, incx3,6sc, incx2 = 24sc  

3row-1sc, inc, 6HDC., (1sc, inc) x3.6HDC., (1sc, inc) x2 = 30sc  

4row-inc, 4HDC., 8DC., IncDCx3., 8DC., 4HDC., Inc x2 = 36sc  

5row-7row -36sc (3 rows) 

8row- (4sc, dec) x6 = 30sc  

9row-30sc 

10р- (3sc, dec) х6 = 24п + 1shift loop 

11row-3sc, (1sc, dec) x6., 3sc, = 18sc  

Start stuffing your foot. Stuff the sock is not strong, there will be shorts for fingers. 

Now cut a piece of wire (I have 35cm) to make a loop, insert it into foot and around the wire still knock padding. 

12row-3sc, decx6., 3sc, = 12sc  

13row-17row-12sc (5 rows) 

18row-10sc, 2sc leave, do not tie to the end of the row. 

When we connect with the right foot, then these two loops will be the first loops. 

We tear off the thread. To fill. 

Right foot 

9 ch 

We start knitting in the second loop of the chain. 

1row-7sc, 3sc in one loop, on the other side of the chain 6sc, inc = 18sc  

2row-inc, 6sc, incx3,6sc, incx2 = 24sc  

3row-1sc, inc, 6HDC., (1sc, inc) x3.6HDC., (1sc, inc) x2 = 30sc  

4row-inc, 4HDC., 8DC., IncDCx3., 8DC., 4HDC., Inc x2 = 36sc  

5row-7row -36sc (3 rows) 

8row- (4sc, dec) x6 = 30sc  

9row-30sc 

10р- (3sc, dec) х6 = 24п + 1shift loop 

11row-3sc, (1sc, dec) x6., 3sc, = 18sc  

Start stuffing your foot. Stuff the sock is not strong, there will be shorts for fingers. 

Now cut a piece of wire (I have 35cm) to make a loop, insert it into foot and around the wire still knock padding. 

12row-3sc, decx6., 3sc, = 12sc  

13r-18r-12sc (6 rows) make 2 offset loops 

To fill. 

Do not tear off the thread, continue knitting. 

Next, we will connect the legs between each other and into the body. 

Body. 

19row- 3sc on the right foot, 6 ch, now we take the left foot and begin knitting from the remaining non-knit stitches 12sc on the left leg, 6sc on ch., 9sc on the right leg. 

20row- 3sc, 6sc by ch., 3sc, (inc, 1sc) x3., 12sc- (3sc on the left leg + 6sc in the chain of ch., + 3sc in the right leg = 12sc)., (1sc, inc) x3 = 42sc  

After 20 rows, the thread should be in the center of the right leg, behind. 

About the wire. Twist the two wires from the legs together, but twist only the length of the body plus the neck, in the head two wires should to be separate. 

21row-22row-42sc (2 rows) 

23row-4sc, inc x6., (Increase for priests), 12sc, (inc, 1sc) x6., (Increase for tummy), 8sc = 54sc  

24r-26r-54sc (3 rows) 

27row- (8sc, inc) x6 = 60sc  

28row-60sc 

29row-5sc, inc, (9sc, inc) x5.4sc = 66sc  

30r-37r-66sc (8 rows) 

38row-40sc, (dec, 1sc) x6., 8sc = 60sc decrease in the middle of the tummy 

39row-60sc 

40row-35sc, (dec, 1sc) x6., 7sc = 54sc decrease in the middle of the tummy 

41r-43r-54sc (3 rows) 

44row- (3sc, dec) x6., 24sc = 48sc  

We begin to fill the body and further, as the body knits, continue stuffing. 

45r-46r- 48sc 

47row- (6sc, dec) x6 = 42sc  

48row-42sc 

49row- (5sc, dec) x6 = 36sc  

50row-36sc 

51row- (4sc, dec) x6 = 30sc  

52row-30sc 

53row- (3sc, dec) x6 = 24sc  

54row- (2sc, dec) x6 = 18sc  

55r-18sc fill to the end Neck. 

56row-decx9 = 9sc  

57row-58row-9sc (2 rows) 

We turn to knitting the head. 

59row-inc x9 = 18sc 

60row- (2sc, inc) x6 = 24sc 

61row- (3sc, inc) x6 = 30sc 

62row- (4sc, inc) x6 = 36sc 

63row- (5sc, inc) x6 = 42sc 

64row- (6sc, inc) x6 = 48sc 

65row- (7sc, inc) x6 = 54sc 

66row- (8sc, inc) x6 = 60sc 

67row- (9sc, inc) x6 = 66sc 

68row- (10sc, inc) x6 = 72sc 

69row- (11sc, inc) x6 = 78sc 

70row- (12sc, inc) x6 = 84sc 

71r-78r-84sc (8 rows) 

From a wire, make such a structure as in the photo, this is for stability teddy bear heads. The head is big on a thin neck. Will also help bend your head to the sides. 

From this moment, you can gradually and gently fill your head. 

The wire should not touch the head, but be inside it. And around wire stuffing. 

It’s better to start stuffing in small lumps, so that gradually fill the entire head space. 

79row-6sc, dec, (12sc, dec) x5., 6sc = 78sc 

80row-78sc 

81row- (11sc, dec) x6 = 72sc 

82row-72sc 

83row-5sc, dec, (10sc, dec) x5., 5sc = 66sc 

84row-66sc 

85row- (9sc, dec) x6 = 60sc 

86row-60sc 

87row-4sc, dec, (8sc, dec) x5., 4sc = 54sc 

88row-54sc 

89row- (7sc, dec) x6 = 48sc 

90row-48sc 

91row-3sc, dec, (6sc, dec) x5., 3sc = 42sc 

92row-42sc 

93row- (5sc, dec) x6 = 36sc 

94row-2sc, dec, (4sc, dec) x5., 2sc = 30sc 

95r- (3sc, dec) x6 = 24sc 

96row-1sc, dec, (2sc, dec) x5., 1sc = 18sc 

97r- (1sc, dec) x6 = 12sc 

98row-dec * 6. 

Hands. (2 parts) 

1row-6sc into magic ring 

2row-incx6 = 12sc  

3row- (1sc, inc) X6 = 18sc  

4row- (2sc, inc) X6 = 24sc  

5r-8r- 24sc (4 rows) 

9row- (2sc, dec) x6 = 18sc  

10r-11r- 18sc (2 rows) 

12row- (1sc, dec) x6 = 12sc Fill your hand, but very weak, so that later you can was to pull her fingers. 

13row-30row- 12sc (18 rows) 

Now we need to cut a piece of wire so that it sticks out from the handle by 1.5-2 cm Longer but insert the wire only after pulling the fingers. 

Flatten your palm and embroider two finger stitches, pulling a little. Fill the handle a little bit. 

Muzzle. 

(from finishing yarn) 

3 ch 

We knit in rotary rows, at the end of each row do ch 

We start with the second loop of the chain 

1row-incx2 = 4sc ch rotation 

2row-inc, 2sc, inc = 6sc ch rotation 

3row-inc, 4sc, inc = 8sc ch rotation 

4row-inc, 6sc, inc = 10sc ch rotation 

5row-inc, 8sc, inc = 12sc ch rotation 

6row-inc, 10sc, inc = 14sc ch rotation 

7row-16row- 14sc (10 rows) ch turn 

17row-dec, 10sc, dec = 12sc ch rotation 

18row-dec, 8sc, dec = 10sc ch rotation 

19row-dec, 6sc, dec = 8sc ch rotation 

20row-dec, 4sc, dec = 6sc ch rotation 

21row-dec, 2sc, dec = 4sc ch rotation 

22row-decx2 = 2sc without turning, tie the entire muzzle around the perimeter with 2 rows of sc 

The ears. (2 parts) 

1row-6sc into magic ring 

2row-incx6 = 12sc  

3row- (1sc, inc) X6 = 18sc  

4row- (2sc, inc) X6 = 24sc  

5row- (3sc, inc) X6 = 30sc  

6r-9r- 30sc (4 rows) 

Fold the ear in half and the lower edge in two layers, tie 15sc 

Inner ear. 

(from finishing yarn) 2 parts. 

9 ch 

We knit in rotary rows, at the end of the row do ch 

We start knitting with the second loop of the chain. 

1row-3row-8sc, (3 rows) ch turn 

4row-dec, 4sc, dec = 6sc ch rotation 

5row-dec, 2sc, dec = 4sc break the thread 

Sew the eyelet carefully into the main ear. 

Inside, the eyelet can be cut out of fabric. 

Lining on the stomach. 

(from a finishing yarn) 1 item. 

1row-6sc into magic ring 

2row-incx6 = 12sc  

3row- (1sc, inc) X6 = 18sc  

4row- (2sc, inc) X6 = 24sc  

5row- (3sc, inc) X6 = 30sc  

6row- (4sc, inc) X6 = 36sc  

Break the thread. 

Assembly. 

Before starting the assembly, it is necessary to comb all the details. Can Velcro, you can use a stitch. 

To comb very carefully so as not to change the shape of the parts. 

You can insert colored pins in the center of the tummy and in the center of the head, so that during assembly you orient yourself and arrange the bear symmetrically. 

You can immediately sew a patch on the tummy, this will also help determine with the center of the figure of the bear. 

Sew on the muzzle, be sure to add filler, but not much to the muzzle did not stick forward, but as if protruding slightly forward. She It is not located in the center of the head, but much down. Somewhere from row 65 (or through 6 rows from the neck) and up. 

Sew on your ears. The bear’s head is not round, and you can see from the sides there are places for ears. 

Make a little eye tightening. To do this, insert the needle behind the head at neck and withdraw into the first eye, tighten a little bit, return, then from the neck withdraw into the second eye and back to the neck. Tighten a little and fix the thread. 

And because our eyes will be located very close to each other, you can with one stitch to capture the entire area intended for the eyes, and a little pull off, do not pull heavily, otherwise they may look like they failed. 

In this embodiment, the eyes will be deepened evenly. 

Choose the nose and eyes at your discretion. But it is better that the nose is not small, I have a length of 2.5 cm. If there is no suitable nozzle in size, it’s easy to make it from plastic or dump it, but you can find a button and to cover with fabric. There are many options. 

The eyes should be placed directly above the muzzle and very close to each other. 

Sticks sticking out wire, insert into the body on the sides in the region of 49-50 rows, sew on. Make sure that your hands are symmetrical. 

Sew a patch on the tummy on the most convex part of the abdomen, a drop add filler. 

Embroider a smile and eyebrows. Embroider a smile in one thread so that it is such is not very noticeable, but eyebrows are better in two strings. Embroider the same toes and toes. 

You can tint the bear a little – cheeks, eyebrows. 

Cut several threads from the main yarn and string them on the crown heads (where we closed the last loops) as we string fringe. 

Cut to desired length and fluff. It will be a forelock. 

A bear can be made with a felted face and a felted nose. Eyes make of plastic. Sew on patches. 

Bear is ready. And you can decorate it as you wish. 

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