Meet the trendsetter of the amigurumi world – the Short Skirt Fashionista Doll! This free amigurumi pattern allows you to create a stylish and chic amigurumi doll with a short skirt, perfect for any fashion-forward crochet enthusiast. Whether you’re a novice or a seasoned crocheter, our step-by-step guide will help you craft this fashionable doll with ease. Get ready to infuse your amigurumi collection with a dose of haute couture flair!
Materials for Crocheting Amigurumi
The yarn of your choice for crocheting these dolls. I use “Acacia” yarn from the Troitsk factory, Milk Cotton yarn, or Yarn Art Jeans yarn. “Acacia” yarn is significantly thinner than the other two types, so it’s best to crochet the toy using a 1 – 1.5 mm hook. I use a size 1 hook for “Acacia” yarn and a 1.5 mm hook for the other two types.
Crochet hook suitable for your yarn.
Toy stuffing (I use polyester stuffing, as it holds its shape well).
Copper wire with a thickness of 1-1.3 mm and a length not exceeding 30 cm.
Artificial eyes (you can also use half beads or beads).
Scissors, glue, and a needle for sewing the toy parts together.
Instructions for Crocheting the Toy
The size of the toy directly depends on the size of the hook and the thickness of the yarn. Avoid using overly thick yarn, as it will make the toy loose and unable to hold its shape. Additionally, it’s necessary to use a hook significantly smaller than the size indicated on the yarn label.
You can crochet the toy in either a spiral or finished rows. If you crochet in a spiral, remember to use a marker for the beginning of each row. If you crochet finished rows, make a turning chain at the start of each row, and in this case, each row ends with a slip stitch in the stitch following the turning chain.
Crochet the toy parts in the sequence described in the master class.
Crochet Abbreviations:
Single crochet (sc)
Single crochet increase (sc inc)
Chain (ch)
Half double crochet increase (hdc inc)
Slip stitch (sl st)
Crab stitch (reverse single crochet)
Decrement (dec): Work a single crochet through the front loop of the next stitch, skip one stitch from the previous row, and work another single crochet.
Arms:
Row 1: 6 sc in a magic ring.
Row 2: 1 sc, sc inc repeat ** until the end of the row (9).
Row 3: 9 sc (9).
Row 4: 2 sc, sc inc repeat ** until the end of the row (12).
Row 5: 3 sc, sc inc repeat ** until the end of the row (15).
Row 6: 3 sc, dec repeat ** until the end of the row (12).
Row 7: Dec, dec, 8 sc (10).
Rows 8-26: 10 sc (10).
Row 27: Dec, 6 sc, dec (8).
Legs and Body:
I crochet the legs in finished rows for neat color changes.
Start by making a chain of 7 ch.
Row 1: Work in the second ch from the hook, hdc inc, 4 sc, 4 sc in the last ch, 4 sc, hdc inc (16).
Row 2: Hdc inc, 6 sc, 2 hdc inc, 6 sc, hdc inc (20).
Row 3: Hdc inc, 8 sc, 3 hdc inc, 6 sc, 2 hdc inc (26).
Row 4: 2 hdc inc, 9 sc, 4 hdc inc, 9 sc, 2 hdc inc (34).
Row 5: 2 hdc inc, 13 sc, 4 hdc inc, 13 sc, 2 hdc inc (42).
Rows 6-8: 42 sc (42).
Row 9: 5 sc, dec repeat ** until the end of the row (36).
Row 10: 12 sc, 6 dec, 12 sc (30).
Row 11: 3 sc, dec repeat ** until the end of the row (24).
Row 12: 24 sc.
Row 13: 10 sc, 4 dec, 6 sc (20).
Rows 14-16: 20 sc (20).
Cut the thread of the boot color. Continue crocheting with your chosen color. If you are making striped stockings, change the color every 2 rows. This will result in 4 stripes of one color and 3 stripes of another.
Rows 17-30: 20 sc (in your chosen color or alternating colors) (20).
Fill the leg tightly as you go. Secure and cut the thread.
Continue in a similar manner to crochet the second leg.
Now, join the thread at the back in the center of the left leg (continue working in stripes).
In Row 31, join both legs: 17 sc along the left leg, 4 ch, (join the right leg with 1 sc), 19 sc along the right leg, 4 sc in the chain, 3 sc along the left leg (48).
Row 32: 48 sc (48).
Row 33: 7 sc, sc inc repeat ** until the end of the row (54).
Row 34: 8 sc, sc inc repeat ** until the end of the row (60).
Rows 35-36: 60 sc (60).
Row 37: 60 sc (in the skirt color, I use yellow) (60). Chain 1, turn.
1 Auxiliary Row: Crochet the skirt by starting behind the far wall of the stitches from the previous row. 9 sc, sc inc repeat ** until the end of the row (66).
2 Auxiliary Row: 66 sl st (66).
3-5 Auxiliary Rows: Alternate between front loop only and back loop only sl st (66).
6 Auxiliary Row: Edge the skirt with a crab stitch.
For a fuller skirt:
1 Auxiliary Row: Crochet the skirt by starting behind the far wall of the stitches from the previous row. 9 sc, sc inc repeat ** until the end of the row (66).
2 Auxiliary Row: 2 sc inc in each stitch from the previous row (132).
3-5 Auxiliary Rows: 132 sc (132).
6 Auxiliary Row: Edge the skirt with a crab stitch.
If desired, you can make the skirt longer and decorate the edge to your liking.
Row 38: Start in the middle of the back with the sweater color, continue along the stitches you left (I use white), 60 sc (60). From here, I crochet in a spiral.
Fill the detail with stuffing as you go.
Row 39: 60 sc (60).
Row 40: 8 sc, dec repeat ** until the end of the row (54).
Row 41: 54 sc (54).
Row 42: 7 sc, dec repeat ** until the end of the row (48).
Rows 43-45: 48 sc (48).
Row 46: 6 sc, dec repeat ** until the end of the row (42).
Rows 47-50: 42 sc (42).
Row 51: 5 sc, dec repeat ** until the end of the row (36).
Row 52: 36 sc (36).
Switch to the body color.
Row 53: 36 sc (36).
Row 54: 4 sc, dec repeat ** until the end of the row (30).
Rows 55-57: 30 sc (30).
Fold the detail in half.
Row 58: Insert the arms through the inner part of the arm, attaching them to the body with 4 sc (30).
Row 59: Crochet 4 sc along the outer part of the arm (30).
Row 60: 30 sc (30).
Row 61: 30 sc (30).
Row 62: 3 sc, dec repeat ** until the end of the row (24).
Row 63: 2 sc, dec repeat ** until the end of the row (18).
Rows 64-65: 18 sc, leave a thread for sewing the head (18).
Make sure to place the areas where you made 2 decreases facing forward when attaching the head.
Head:
Start by creating a chain of 5 and join it to form a ring.
Round 1: Make 6 single crochet (sc) into the ring (6).
Round 2: Work 2 sc in each of the 6 stitches from the previous round (12).
Note: The pattern uses increases (or “прибавка”) to add extra stitches. An increase is typically done by making two stitches into one stitch from the previous round.
Round 3: 1 sc, increase repeat this pattern around (18).
Round 4: 2 sc, increase repeat this pattern around (24).
Round 5: 3 sc, increase repeat this pattern around (30).
Round 6: 4 sc, increase repeat this pattern around (36).
Round 7: 5 sc, increase repeat this pattern around (42).
Round 8: 6 sc, increase repeat this pattern around (48).
Round 9: 7 sc, increase repeat this pattern around (54).
Round 10: 8 sc, increase repeat this pattern around (60).
Round 11: 9 sc, increase repeat this pattern around (66).
Round 12: 10 sc, increase repeat this pattern around (72).
Rounds 13 to 20: Continue with 72 single crochet stitches (72).
Round 21: 19 sc, increase, (2 sc, increase) repeated 11 times, 19 sc (84).
Place contrasting markers on the first and last increases for attaching the hair, nose, and making the facial features symmetrical.
22 to 28: Continue with 84 single crochet stitches (84).
Round 29: 12 sc, decrease repeat this pattern around (78).
Round 30: 11 sc, decrease repeat this pattern around (72).
Round 31: 10 sc, decrease repeat this pattern around (66).
Round 32: 9 sc, decrease repeat this pattern around (60).
Continue decreasing the number of stitches in each round as follows:
Round 33: 8 sc, decrease repeat this pattern around (54).
Round 34: 7 sc, decrease repeat this pattern around (48).
Round 35: 6 sc, decrease repeat this pattern around (42).
Round 36: 5 sc, decrease repeat this pattern around (36).
Fill the head with a small amount of stuffing, but do not overfill, as you’ll need space to make the drawstrings.
Round 37: 4 sc, decrease repeat this pattern around (30).
Round 38: 3 sc, decrease repeat this pattern around (24).
Fill the head with stuffing, making sure the wire is positioned in the center of the head’s opening. Ensure the stuffing is firm but not too tight, leaving some room for the drawstrings.
Round 39: 2 sc, decrease repeat this pattern around (18). Leave a tail of yarn for sewing the head.
Draw the drawstrings for the facial features:
Count 11 stitches to the left and right of the yellow markers and go up two rows, which is where the eyes will be located (yellow marker is a tailor’s pin).
From the yellow marker, count two stitches (blue marker).
Count down 11 rows from the yellow marker and two stitches to the left and right (green marker).
Use a long needle and nylon thread for the drawstrings.
For the left eye:
Insert the needle from the head’s opening to the yellow marker location (leave a 15-20 cm yarn tail).
Insert the needle at the blue marker and bring it out at the green marker.
Insert the needle one stitch to the right of the green marker and bring it out at the corner of the eye (where the yellow marker was initially).
Insert the needle at the blue marker location and bring it out through the head’s opening. Tighten the threads to shape the eye, then tie a few knots. Cut the thread.
Repeat the same process for the right eye, but this time insert the needle one stitch to the left of the green marker and bring it out at the corner of the eye.
If needed, add a bit more stuffing to the head.
Glue or sew the eyes in place, and embroider the nose with yarn that matches the doll’s skin tone. You can also add eyelashes and eyebrows using thin black cotton thread.
For the hair:
Start by creating a chain of 5 and join it to form a ring.
Round 1: Make 6 single crochet (sc) into the ring (6).
Round 2: Work 2 sc in each of the 6 stitches from the previous round (12).
Continue with rounds to make a cap that fits the head. Make sure the bottom edge reaches the markers you left on the sides of the head.
Leave a yarn tail for sewing the cap.
Sew the cap onto the head, being careful not to distort the shape of the head. The cap should cover the head, leaving the facial features exposed.
To create hair, make multiple spirals or curls using the following technique:
Start by making a chain of 60.
Work 1 single crochet (sc), 1 slip stitch (sl st), 1 single crochet (sc) into the second chain from your hook.
Continue making 3 single crochets into each chain except the last one.
Finish with 1 single crochet (sc), 1 slip stitch (sl st), 1 single crochet (sc) in the last chain.
Leave a yarn tail for sewing.
Make 6 of these spirals or more, depending on the desired hair thickness.
Place the cap on the doll’s head, position the spirals as hair, and carefully attach them to the cap, concealing any visible stitches.
Insert the wire into the doll’s head and body. Bend and secure the wire to ensure the head is securely attached to the body.
Sew the head to the body using the yarn tail left from the head.
Your amigurumi doll should now be complete! You can add any additional details or accessories to customize the doll further.
Vest:
Work the vest in turned rows.
Start by chaining 31 stitches.
Row 1: In the second chain from the hook, single crochet (sc) in each of the next 30 stitches (30).
Row 2: 4 sc, increase repeat this pattern across (36).
Row 3: 5 sc, increase repeat this pattern across (42).
Row 4 to 6: Continue with 42 single crochet stitches (42).
Row 7: 6 sc, increase repeat this pattern across (48).
Row 8: Continue with 48 single crochet stitches (48).
Row 9: 7 sc, increase repeat this pattern across (54).
Row 10: Continue with 54 single crochet stitches (54).
Row 11: 8 sc, 5 chains, skip 10 stitches, 18 sc, 5 chains, skip 10 stitches, 8 sc (54).
This is creating the armhole for the vest.
Row 12: 8 sc, 7 sc in the chain space, 18 sc, 7 sc in the chain space, 8 sc (48).
Row 13: 7 sc, increase repeat this pattern across (54).
14-15. Row 14 to 15: Continue with 54 single crochet stitches (54).
Row 16: 8 sc, increase repeat this pattern across (60).
17-18. Row 17 to 18: Continue with 60 single crochet stitches (60).
Now, crochet a border around the vest using single crochet stitches. Then, use a contrasting thread to create the “Crab Stitch” or “Reverse Single Crochet” around the border. This creates a decorative edge for the vest.
To finish the vest, create a small decorative button or tie for the closure, embellish it with beads if desired.
