Panama hat Dog Amigurumi Free Pattern

Discover a delightful and free crochet pattern to create a Panama Hat Dog Amigurumi. This step-by-step guide provides detailed instructions to craft an adorable dog toy wearing a stylish Panama hat. Perfect for crochet enthusiasts of all skill levels, this pattern allows you to showcase your creativity while making a charming companion. Get ready to embark on a joyful crafting journey with this cute and fashionable amigurumi dog

This master class includes a complete description of the process of knitting a toy, intermediate photos of the details. Additionally, there is a description of knitting a Panama hat. 

The toy is knitted from the bottom up, using “half-cross stitches” in a spiral (unless otherwise specified). The nose, upper paws, and tail are knitted, while the ears are sewn on. The pants are not removable, but the Panama hat is removable. 

When using the specified materials, the height of the finished toy is approximately 19-20 cm. 

Mark the beginning of each row with a contrasting thread that is thinner than the one you use to knit the toy. 

The description does not contain tutorial lessons and is intended for those who already have basic crochet skills. 

This description is my original work and is absolutely FREE. You are free to do as you wish with toys created using this description. When publishing photos of finished works, I would appreciate it if you mention me as the author of the description. 

Materials and tools needed: 

• A crochet hook suitable for your yarn. 
• YarnArt JEANS yarn in any colors of your choice. I used main color No. 85 and No. 28 for the nose. For the pants, I used colors No. 52, 60, 35. For the Panama hat, I used colors No. 16, 75, 35. 
• A small amount of black or dark brown thread for shaping the face. Use a thinner thread than the main one you will use to crochet the toy. I used “Azhurnaya” by “Pekhorka” No. 02 (black, 280 m/50 g). Do not use the full thickness of YarnArt JEANS for embroidery, as it will look coarse on the face. You can divide it. 
• Stuffing. 
• 10 mm safety eyes, or sew-on eyes, or adhesive eyes (beads, half-beads – your choice). 
• White felt circles with a diameter of 15 mm for the whites of the eyes. 
• Strong thread for tightening. 
• Needle for sewing on parts, scissors, pins, marking thread. 
• Button for the strap. 

Abbreviations: 

MC – Magic Circle 

sc – single crochet 

ch – chain 

inc – increase 

dec – decrease 

sl st – slip stitch 

(…)*X – repeat X times the instructions inside the parentheses 

The number after the equal sign (=) indicates the total number of stitches in the row. 

PATTERN

Upper Paws 

Row 1: 6 sc in MC. 

Row 2: 6 inc = 12. 

Rows 3-17: 12 sc. 

Stuff the lower part of the paws lightly. Fold in half and crochet 6 sc through both walls. Fasten off and cut the yarn. 

The paws will be sewn on later. 

Nose 

Start with 5 ch, work into the second ch from the hook: 

Row 1: inc, 2 sc, 4 sc in one loop, 2 sc, inc = 12. 

Row 2: 2 inc, 2 sc, 4 inc, 2 sc, 2 inc = 20. 

Rows 3-4: 20 sc. 

Row 5: dec 10. 

Fasten off and cut the yarn. 

You can lightly stuff the nose now or later. We will sew it on. 

Head 

Row 1: 6 sc in MC. 

Row 2: 6 inc = 12. 

Row 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 = 18. 

Row 4: (2 sc, inc)*6 = 24. 

Row 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 = 30. 

Row 6: (4 sc, inc)*6 = 36. 

Row 7: (5 sc, inc)*6 = 42. 

Row 8: (6 sc, inc)*6 = 48. 

Row 9: (7 sc, inc)*6 = 54. 

Row 10: (8 sc, inc)*6 = 60. 

Rows 11-12: 60 sc. 

Row 13: (9 sc, inc)*6 = 66. 

Rows 14-18: 66 sc. 

In the next row, we will crochet the cheeks and attach the nose. 

Row 19: 19 sc, (1 sc, inc)*6, 5 sc in the 5 stitches of the nose, (inc, 1 sc)*6, 18 sc = 78. 

Row 20: 37 sc, 5 sc in the remaining stitches of the nose, 36 sc = 78. 

Lightly stuff the nose if you haven’t done so before. 

Rows 21-30: 78 sc. 

If you are using safety eyes, install them at this stage, between rows 17 and 18. Leave 6-8 sc between the eye placements. I used 7 sc. Center the eyes relative to the nose. 

Take the felt circles. Fold them in half carefully to avoid creases, then make small cuts, slightly shifting from the center towards the edge. 

Rotate the circles and make perpendicular cuts (resulting in a cross shape). Insert the eyes into the cuts and secure them to the fabric. 

Later, after tightening, you can secure the felt with glue if desired. 

Row 31: (11 sc, dec)*6 = 72. 

Row 32: (7 sc, dec)*8 = 64. 

Row 33: (6 sc, dec)*8 = 56. 

Row 34: (5 sc, dec)*8 = 48. 

Row 35: (4 sc, dec)*8 = 40. 

Row 36: (3 sc, dec)*8 = 32. 

Row 37: (2 sc, dec)*8 = 24. 

Stuff the head firmly but not excessively. 

Keep in mind that there will be tightening. Fasten off and hide the yarn inside. 

Tail 

Row 1: 6 sc in MC. 

Row 2: (1 sc, inc)*3 = 9. 

Rows 3-4: 9 sc. 

Row 5: 4 sc, inc, 4 sc = 10. 

Rows 6-11: 10 sc. 

Ears 

Row 1: 6 sc in MC. 

Row 2: 6 inc = 12. 

Row 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 = 18. 

Row 4: (2 sc, inc)*6 = 24. 

Row 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 = 30. 

Row 6: (4 sc, inc)*6 = 36. 

Rows 7-23: 36 sc. 

Row 24: (4 sc, dec)*6 = 30. 

Row 25: 30 sc. 

Row 26: (3 sc, dec)*6 = 24. 

Row 27: 24 sc. 

Row 28: (2 sc, dec)*6 = 18. 

Rows 29-31: 18 sc. 

Fold the ear in half and crochet through both walls, making 9 sc. Fasten off, cut the yarn, leaving a small tail for sewing to the head. 

Lower Paws 

Row 1: 6 sc in MC. 

Row 2: 6 inc = 12. 

Row 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 = 18. 

Rows 4-5: 18 sc. 

Row 6: 3 sc, 6 dec, 3 sc = 12. 

Row 7: 12 sc. 

Switch to green yarn, color No. 52. 

Row 8: 12 sc. 

The next row is worked in back loops only: 

Row 9: (1 sc, inc)*6 = 18. 

Row 10: 18 sc. 

Row 11: (2 sc, inc)*6 = 24. 

Row 12: 24 sc. 

Temporarily secure the yarn on the first paw and cut, leaving a 30 cm tail. Do not cut the yarn on the second paw. Place the paws side by side and determine the desired position for sewing, considering the desired “paw position” of the future toy. Crochet several additional stitches on the second paw towards the joining point, on the inner side (for me, it’s 7 sc, but the degree of shift may vary for you). 

Go back to the first paw and crochet the same number of additional stitches. This is done to ensure that the legs are the same height. Now you can secure and cut the yarn short. Remove any marker threads. 

Count back the number of additional stitches you added on the first paw, multiplied by 2. In my case, it’s 14. This is the point where the first paw will be joined to the second paw. Check for symmetry by placing the paws together at the joining points. 

Body 

Stuff the body tightly as you crochet. 

Start by crocheting a chain of 3 ch, then join the paws. 

Row 1: 24 sc around the first paw, 3 sc in the chain, 24 sc around the second paw, 3 sc in the chain. Total stitches in the row = 54. 

Place a marker thread. 

Row 2: (8 sc, inc)*6 = 60. 

Row 3: 60 sc. 

Row 4: (9 sc, inc)*6 = 66. 

Rows 5-7: 66 sc. 

In rows 8 and 9, we will crochet the tail. 

Row 8: 62 sc, then 5 sc together with the tail, inserting the hook through 1 stitch of the next row = 66. 

Place a marker in row 9 after the 66th stitch; the stitch count remains the same. Note that your stitch shift may differ. Position the tail at the back, centered. 

Row 9: = 62 sc, 5 sc in the remaining stitches of the tail, also inserting the hook through 1 stitch of the next row = 66. 

For convenience, you can pull out the marker thread and place it again before the first stitch of row 10 (after the 4th stitch of the tail). You can lightly stuff the tail and, if desired, insert wire inside. I simply lightly stuffed it with filling. 

Row 10: 66 sc. 

In row 11, switch to a light green yarn, color No. 60. We will crochet 2 sc as usual, then 2 sc under the loops of the previous row. Repeat this pattern until the end of row 11. 

Row 11: 66 sc. 

Row 12: (9 sc, dec)*6 = 60. 

Row 13: 60 sc. 

Row 14: (8 sc, dec)*6 = 54. 

In row 15, switch to yellow yarn, color No. 35. We will crochet 2 sc as usual, then 2 sc under the loops of the previous row. Repeat this pattern until the end of row 15. 

Row 15: 54 sc. 

Row 16: (7 sc, dec)*6 = 48. 

Row 17: 48 sc. 

Row 18: (6 sc, dec)*6 = 42. 

Switch to orange yarn, color No. 85, and crochet through the back loops. 

Row 19: 42 sc. 

Row 20: (5 sc, dec)*6 = 36. 

Rows 21-23: 36 sc. 

In row 24, we will crochet the upper paws. 

Stuff the main part of the body quite tightly but not completely. Leave about 1 cm so that it’s easier to attach the paws, and the filling doesn’t get between the stitches. Determine the attachment points strictly on the sides: 6 sc together with each paw, and between them, 12 sc. 

With my stitch shift, it looks like this: 

Row 24: 8 sc, 6 sc together with the paw, 12 sc, 6 sc together with the paw, 4 sc = 36. 

Row 25: 36 sc. 

Row 26: (4 sc, dec)*6 = 30. 

Row 27: (3 sc, dec)*6 = 24. 

Crochet a few more stitches (for me, it’s 1 sc and a slip stitch into the next stitch), then fasten off the yarn at the back, centering it along the spine. Leave about 50 cm for sewing the head. Remove the marker thread. Stuff the piece tightly to the end. When attaching the head, remember to push the filling down into the neck. For convenience, you can secure the head to the body using knitting needles. 

Weighting 

Let’s shape the mouth and eye sockets with weighting. Mark 6 points on the muzzle using pins. 

Find the center of the muzzle by aligning a thread, knitting needle, or needle down from the center of the nose. Place markers between rows 29 and 30, with 2-3 sc between the markers. Between rows 18 and 19, mark 4 additional points from the outer and inner corners of the eyes. The inner corners mark the beginning and end of the crocheted nose. There are 2 sc between the inner and outer points. 

Insert the needle at point 1, leaving a thread tail of about 25-30 cm, and pull it out at point 2. Then insert it at point 3 and pull it out at point 6. 

Adjust the thread to position it under the eye and felt circle, tighten it, and tie 2 knots. Without cutting the thread, insert it at point 6, pull it out at point 5, then insert it at point 4 and pull it out at point 1. Tighten it, tie a couple of knots, and hide the threads inside the head. 

You can apply a small amount of transparent universal glue, such as “Mоment Crystal,” to the last knot and the points of insertion and exit of the threads. Carefully apply the glue to keep the threads secure. 

Lower Lip 

Leave a thread tail of about 30 cm, make a magic ring, and crochet 6 sc in it. Tighten the ring. 

Leave a thread tail of about 40-45 cm and cut the yarn. 

The shape of the piece should resemble a semi-circle. Try it on and attach it a few rows below the mouth weighting. Secure the center of the lip slightly below the edges. When sewing, apply moderate tension to the thread and avoid pulling too tight. Pull the middle thread to the back (into the magic ring) and bring it back through any neighboring stitch. I used small stitches, going from the center of the ring through a row inside the head. You can repeat this step. 

Make tight stitches without pulling too tightly. Hide the thread inside the head with a few entangling stitches. 

Use the second thread tail to secure both edges of the lip. Stitch up and down. Bring the thread to the point of nose insertion (between rows 18 and 19). Thanks to the weighting, these stitches will be hidden. 

Adding Pants 

At this stage, we will crochet the bottom of the pants in green and the top in yellow, using single crochet stitches in the back loops only. 

Crochet around the remaining back loops of row 9 for the bottom of the pants, keeping the toy facing toward you. 

Crochet around the remaining back loops of row 19 for the top of the pants, keeping the toy facing away from you. 

Do not cut the yarn. Immediately create a strap by crocheting a chain of air loops. With my tension, I made 23 loops. Secure it diagonally with a slip stitch around the crocheted edge, leaving about 50-55 cm and cut the yarn. Thread the same yarn through the button, bring it back to the beginning of the strap, tie a couple of knots, and hide the ends inside the toy. 

Attaching the Ears 

Attach the ears after row 12 from the top. There should be 26 stitches between the ears, which means 13 stitches on each side of the muzzle. 

To prevent the ears from curling, slightly moisten them with water (using a sponge or spray bottle), pin them in place, and let them dry completely for about 12 hours. 

If desired, you can use thin black thread to embroider eyebrows, “wrinkles” above the cheeks, and a line from the nose to the mouth. 

Panama Hat (with a flat brim) 

The panama hat is crocheted similarly to Moni Prjanikova’s pattern but without holes for the ears. 

Crochet “fan” stitches from top to bottom, not too tightly. Adjust the tension based on your preference. You may need a larger crochet hook size. Try it on as you crochet and adjust the desired depth according to your preference. You can use solid color yarn, variegated yarn, or yarn with color transitions. 

Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring. 

Row 2: 6 inc = 12. 

Row 3: (inc, 1 sc)*6 = 18. 

Row 4: (2 sc, inc)*6 = 24. 

Row 5: (inc, 3 sc)*6 = 30. 

Row 6: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc)*6 = 36. 

Row 7: (4 sc, inc, 1 sc)*6 = 42. 

Row 8: (6 sc, inc)*6 = 48. 

Row 9: (inc, 7 sc)*6 = 54. 

Row 10: (2 sc, inc, 6 sc)*6 = 60. 

Row 11: (4 sc, inc, 5 sc)*6 = 66. 

Row 12: (6 sc, inc, 4 sc)*6 = 72. 

Row 13: 72 sc in the back loops only (or with inverted single crochet stitches). 

Rows 14-21: 72 sc. 

Row 22: (8 sc, inc, 3 sc)*6 = 78. 

Row 23: (10 sc, inc, 2 sc)*6 = 84. 

Rows 24-28: 84 sc. 

Try on the panama hat. If you’re satisfied with the depth, secure the yarn and cut it. If necessary, you can increase or decrease the number of rows. 

That’s it! Our little dog won’t go without a head!